Chogori and Ch’ima
Chogori for females have changed over time more than those for males. The earliest versions went all the way to the hips and were tied at the waist. By the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), they only went as far as the arm pits, with a longer front panel to cover the breasts. Dongchong (detachable paper collars) help accent the woman’s neck. Like the men’s version, they are tied across the chest in front with a bow.
The ch’ima is a rectangular or tubular skirt with a high, pleated waistband. It is tied above the breasts with long sashes. By flowing over the rest of the body, it completely hides the female shape, strongly influenced by the Confucian society. Like the wide-legged paji for males, the billowing ch’ima allows a great deal of freedom for squatting, the preferred position when doing most household chores.
A durumagi is worn over regular clothes for warmth during cold weather. Although originally worn by government officials and royalty as everyday attire, commoners began wearing them for special occasions.
A gat-chogori was slightly bigger than an average chogori, but had rabbit fur lining the inside to keep the body warm. The outside layer was made of silk.
Noble class females of the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) wore a changot to cover their face and upper body whenever they went out in public. Similar to the ssukae ch’ima worn by women of lower classes. Hiding the face created a mysterious look.
Women wore this cloak-like clothing during the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) whenever they went out in public. Although shaped like a ch’ima, it was about 30 centimeters shorter and somewhat narrower. Depending on the season, it either had two layers or was patched with cotton. The white collar could be pinched in to hide ones face when a male approached.
Women would sometimes wear several layers of undergarments. Sok ch’ima (similar to petticoats) helped give a female’s hanboka fuller appearance.